Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
